Muhabura- The Guide: a photo-essay

All photos in this essay shot with a cellphone.   She straddles the Uganda-Rwanda border with a silent majesty. Muhabura (The Guide), an extinct volcano (or so they say), whose date of last eruption is unknown, was completely covered with mist and clouds when we arrived in Kisoro at mid-day on Wednesday January 11, 2017. […]

Sun kisses Lake Bunyonyi goodnight

Lake Bunyonyi, Kigezi. The Sun kisses her good night on the evening of January 9, 2017. What words can express the visual experience? How does one convey the sense of peace and calm? Lake Bunyonyi, this 25 km long lake, with a perimeter length of 64 km, is Africa’s second deepest lake. It has 29 islands, […]

Poor roads stunt Kigezi’s development

I am in Kigezi, enjoying the warmth and hospitality of Banyakigezi, renewing old friendships, catching up on developments in the lives of relatives and taking in the breathtaking beauty of this blessed land. For the most part, nearly every experience fills me with joy. Not even the evident economic challenges dampen my spirits. Without doubt, […]

Kigezi District Council Members 1961

Dr. James Mugisha gwa Kikira kya Mbagyeruka gave me a printed copy of this photograph more than ten years ago. It is one of my most treasured records of our history, not only because I knew many of these elders but also because it presents leaders who were very firmly grounded and honourable in the […]

Katiikiri: The man who fed future leaders

Memories of 1966 flood black with torrential force. That bloody year of political and military turmoil stands out like a sore thumb in Africa’s history. Though I was aware of the news reports and listened to my parents discussing the political upheaval with their friends in sombre, funereal tones, I neither understood their impact nor […]

London Convention to usher ICOB into teenage

I have been in London since Saturday, enjoying the cool but comfortable summer while looking forward to the fourteenth annual convention of the International Community of Banyakigezi (ICOB). The London Team has done an outstanding job of preparing to receive delegates to the convention that takes place at Kingston University, London this coming weekend. Well […]

Lessons for ICOB from Canada and the World Jewish Congress

In the 35 years that I have lived in Canada, I have been most impressed by the citizens’ ability to transcend political differences to achieve shared goals and collective interests. If we need a new hospital in our community, for example, we mobilize funds from the community and seek government inputs without worrying what party […]

Amaziina G’enogo and Millet Bread Etiquette of the Bakiga

  Few things are as culturally painful as watching a modern school-educated Mukiga or Munyankore eating oburo (millet bread) and enyama (meat). Out comes a knife and fork, delicately supported by soft, washed and well-oiled hands.  The millet bread, already pre-cut into small manageable pieces, is lifted from its container and gently placed on a […]

Leaders should put Kigezi first, self last

Written in  January 2013 I have spent the last week in Kigezi, the one place I am happier than anywhere else on Earth.  The thick morning mist that gives way to glorious sunshine invariably triggers memories of a happy childhood spent exploring the mountains and valleys of Bushengyera, the southern part of Kigezi. Not even […]